去年春天造訪過 Algonquin Park (亞崗崑省立公園) 之後，一直有個心願：想進一步去探索遠離塵囂人煙稀少的公園深處，並體驗加拿大式的獨木舟露營行程。感謝表妹的邀約，這次有幸能和多倫多一群擁有豐富露營經驗的朋友們同行，快樂出發平安回來，真的很感恩，藉此記錄下露營中同甘共苦的經歷與大家分享。
Although I have never considered myself to be very very adventurous, but I have always had an interest in nature. After my visit to Algonquin park last Spring, I had been looking for another opportunity to break from the city, with a challenging trip that would break out of my comfort zone. Thanks to my cousin, I had the chance to join the backcountry canoe trip at Algonquin Park with bunch of experienced camping experts from Toronto. I appreciated having guidance for the trip, and hence I would like to note down things I learnt and observed, hoping to become a useful reference for anyone interested in doing their next canoeing trip.
這篇主要介紹行前的路線規劃與實際的行走路線，和露營準備的裝備。
In this particular post, the planned & actual canoe route at Algonquin Park we had is introduced. A checklist of camping gears is also provided for quick reference.
Algonquin Park 位於加拿安大略省離渥太華以西多倫多以北3個小時車程的地方。 它是加拿大最大的公園之一。也是絕佳的野外獨木舟露營地點，內有上千座湖泊，蜿蜒的小溪與無數的野生動物。很多於公園深處的紮營點靠的是 portage + 獨木舟才能到達。
The Algonquin Provincial Park of Ontario Canada is 3 hours drive West from Ottawa or North from Toronto. It is one of the largest parks in Canada with thousands of lakes, countless bogs, ponds and meandering streams, it is the habitat of many wildlife, and a perfect backcountry for the canoe trip. Many campsites in the Park Interior are only accessible by paddle-and-portage.
Portage 指的是於兩水路間，由一水路到另一水路的陸上運輸。由於湖與湖之間並不一定有方便的水道連接，所以當我們抵達湖的一端時就得上岸，並揹著所有的露營用品、食物、槳和獨木舟，走過崎嶇不平的小路，到達下一座湖的入水處。這次四天三夜的獨木舟露營路徑，總共有十幾趟的 portage，長度100多公尺~2320公尺不等。Portage 時負責背運獨木舟的人最是辛苦，雖然我們這次租的是 Ultra Light 的 16ft Kevlar 輕型獨木舟，但如果扣掉背包重量，光獨木舟本身就重達40多磅 (約20公斤)。據說鋁製的獨木舟更是重 (查到的重量是66磅 ~ 30公斤)，但穩定性較高，遇到大浪會比較沉穩。所以各有其優勢，選擇上建議考慮本身能負荷的體力和獨木舟的掌控能力。
Portage are trails that connect two navigable waterways along the Park’s Canoe Routes Network. Whenever you reach one end of waterway, all the camping gears, food, paddles are offloaded from the canoe, one person would have to carry the canoe over his/her shoulder and the rest follow by carrying all kinds of gears along. In our canoe trip, the portage range in length from 100+m to 2320m while the trails were usually consist of rough terrain going up and down. Even though the canoe we rented was the Kevlar 16ft Ultra-light, it still weighs over 40lb (~20kg) without the backpack. Still this was a lot lighter than the aluminum type canoe that could weigh up to 66lb (~30kg), with a greater stability over the large waves. Different type of canoe has its own pros and cons, and one should consider his/her physical condition (for portaging) and padding ability (canoe maneuverability) for making the suitable choice.
路線規劃與實際路線 Planned / Actual Canoe Route
上圖是行前規劃的路程。下圖的 Google Maps 則標上了照片中的 GPS 定位資訊。可以看到我們行徑的實際路程。The map above delineates the planned canoe route within the Algonquin Park. The actual route we took are shown in the Google Maps below, which contain place marks based on the GPS coordinates recorded in the EXIF data embedded in the photos I took.
這趟旅程也帶上了才不久前入手的新相機: Sony DSC-HX9V。攝影時也儘量讓相機完成 GPS 定位後再拍攝。原先估計兩顆電池各撐兩天應該足夠，但是換上第二顆電池時卻發現電沒充飽，導致最後一天能有 GPS 定位資訊的照片量銳減。由於要等 GPS 完成定位太花時間和電了，只好捨棄 GPS 資訊拍照。其實獨木舟露營行程帶著相機會有點麻煩，原因在於此相機不防水，所以每當拍攝完都得把相機裝入防水袋中保護好，避免萬一船翻時新相機不得不馬上退役的窘境。
I brought my newly purchased digital camera: Sony DSC-HX9V along for the canoe trip. Whenever it is turned on, it requires a few seconds or minutes to acquire the GPS coordinates from the satellite. Once it completes the lock down, the photos taken in each subsequent shot will contain the GPS coordinates in the EXIF data. However, the 2nd camera battery I got was not fully charged, therefore, in the last day of the trip, many photos were taken before GPS data can be acquired (as I had to switch it off quickly to conserve power). In fact, because this particular camera is not waterproof, bringing it along for canoe trip requires extra caution. The Ziploc waterproof bag was used for the camera just in case the canoe gets capsized.
Algonquin Park 有超過 2000 km 的獨木舟水路網路，可以規劃出無數的行進路線。我們出發前幾個月，這群經驗豐富的朋友們已規劃出四天三夜的路線，由 access point 5 的 Canoe Lake 出發，先往北，再順時針的繞一圈回到 Canoe Lake。
Algonquin Park is the home with 2000 km of canoe routes and portages, you can plan an almost incalculable number of possible trips with extended adventure. These experienced camping friends had planned the route for the 4 days trip, it all begin from Canoe Lake, known as access point 5 of the park, then head North, North East, going clockwise and eventually turn South, back to the Canoe Lake.
一路上經過的湖/小溪/portage 的順序為：
The following are the lakes/creeks/portages we went through in our clockwise canoe route:
Day 1 – 7/29 (~ 18km)
- Canoe Lake (access point 5)
- Portage – 260m
- Joe Lake
- Tepee Lake
- Fawn Lake
- Littledoe Lake
- Tom Thomson Lake
- Portage – 2320m
- Ink Lake
- McIntosh Lake (Day 1 camp site)
Day 2 – 7/30 (~ 22km)
- Portage – 510m
- Portage – 745m
- McIntosh Marsh
- Marsh Bog (走錯水路誤闖沼澤)
- Grassy Bay/Lake
- White Trout Lake
- Big Trout Lake (Day 2 camp site)
Day 3 – 7/31 (~ 24km)
- Big Trout Lake North East End (當天早上走錯方向多划了一個鐘頭)
- Portage – 105m
- Portage – 730m
- Portage – 295m
- Otterslide Lake Creek
- Portage – 390m
- Portage – 190m
- Otterslide Lake
- Little Otterslide Lake
- Portage – 790m
- Burnt Island Lake (Day 3 camp site)
Day 4 – 8/1 (~ 17.5km)
- Burnt Island Lake
- Portage – 200m
- Baby Joe Lake
- Portage – 435m
- Little Joe Lake
- East Arm
- Western Gap
- Joe Lake
- Canoe Lake (access point 5)
利用 Google Earth (下圖) 可以測量出四天的行走路徑總共差不多有80多公里。平均一天要划船 7 小時，含午餐時間。真的是一種耐力的考驗。三個夜晚都露宿於湖畔或於島上的露營地。
By using Google Earth (below), the total distance that was covered in this canoe trip was measured to be more than 80km, which involved considerable travel each day. It was ranged from 4.5 hours to 9 hours of paddling/portage per day, including the time for lunch. It was really a challenge for me. Our campsites for the nights were located by the lakes or on the island of the lake.
露營裝備 Camping Gear
在出發露營之前，其實有很多時間在準備要帶的裝備。基本上遵循幾大原則：
Much of the time was spent in preparing the camping gear before the trip. In general, the gears were prepared with the following considerations:
- 只帶必要/一定會用到的裝備 Only bring the gears that would be used
- 裝備越輕越好 The lighter the better
- 非防水的東西要用袋子打包好再放入背包內 Use Ziploc bag or garbage bags / waterproof sacks to prevent things from getting wet
打包完的背包居然也重達16公斤！ My backpack weight about 16kg!
下面表格列整理出這次帶去的裝備。主要分為必要跟次要兩大類。希望對有興趣露營的朋友有幫助。The following tables summarised the camping gears we brought. There are 2 categories, must have or optional. Could be an useful reference for any canoe + camping trip.
必要裝備 Must Have Camping Gear
次要裝備 Optional Camping Gear
大自然的饗宴 Be with the Nature
獨木舟露營行，雖然過程繁瑣，相當耗體力，但卻可以享受到置身於大自然深處得天獨厚的地理環境、清澈甘甜的湖水和世外桃源般的美景。白天青山綠水映在眼廉，夜晚滿天星斗伴君入睡。如果你是大自然的愛好者，野外獨木舟露營也許適合你。往後幾篇將分享每日的精華行程和照片。
Backcountry camping with canoe requires tremendous effort in route planning and gear preparation, it is also physically demanding if the length of route and portage are long. Nevertheless, when you go beyond roads, cell phone signals in the backcountry of the undisturbed land & lakes, you get to experience the unique landscapes, pristine water from the lake, and the amazing sights of mother nature. They are the rewards of the hardships in the trip. I was thankful that these places are still here for us to enjoy. If you like the nature-based outdoor recreation, you might find backcountry camping with canoe the perfect way for an adventure.
冥想於靜謐天際 Thoughts Under the Tranquil Sky 
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